I'm stuck inside of Mobile with the Memphis blues again"
-Bob Dylan
Jan 2, 2011:
Ok, not quite stuck in Mobile, more like stuck in Sahagún. The 22k from Calzadilla to Sahagún was unremarkable and uninteresting. Met another pilgrim on his way back from Santiago, and he warned me that all of the albergues between Sahagún and Mansilla las Mulas were closed down until mid-January. That was bad news... it'd mean a 40k+ stretch between accomodations. In the ongoing battle between determination and pragmatism, pragmatism wins another round. I'd have to catch a bus from Sahagun to Mansilla and try my luck there. I arrived in Sahagún mid-afternoon, and got the same impression that I had the last time I was there...it's a large-ish city, but it's kind of a dump. While the historical centre of the city was well maintained, pretty much everywhere else had all the charm of a Detroit slum (if Detroit slums had been built out of adobe). Checked into the albergue and proceeded to seek out the bus station or an internet cafe. Evidently, the city has neither. Sahagun is on the main railway line between Valladolid and León, so I guess someone figured that busses were unnecessary. Also, given the entire city was covered in grafitti, someone else figured that providing an internet café for the obviously bored youth was unnecessary as well.
Got my ticket at the train station, which did not go to Mansilla, but rather directly to León. Unfortunately, it didn't leave until 2:00 the next afternoon, so I was stuck in Sahagún for several hours more than I wanted to be. More than anyone there wanted to be, apparently...not an especially friendly city. Then again, if I was doomed to a long term stay in Sahagún like they were, I doubt that I'd be particularly happy.
The train ride into León, which covered a two-day walk, took 30 minutes, which just goes to show what an inefficient means of transporation our feet are. Arrived in León, without a clue as to where I was going to stay that night (no internet in Sahagún). Wandered around the city a bit until I found an internet café, then looked up the various hotels...not to mention the location of where I was in the city. Found what I was looking for, and will be spending the next several days in León. Probably until the 7th, as I really don't want to start wandering in the wilderness again until the last big holiday (Three Kings day, Jan 6) is out of the way. Less chance of everything being closed that way.
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