Day 2: Valcarlos to Roncesvalles

Woke up just before the crack of dawn like a good pilgrom and got myself ready.  Breakfast consisted of coffee, some bread from the day before, and a soft cheese that you couldn´t escape the smell of in St. Jean.

I had expected a reasonably easy day, although I knew the climb out of Valcarlos would be a bear.  I didn´t quite grasp how tough it would be though.  It was essentially five hours of straight climbing at various grades interspersed with me panting for air (sometimes standing, sometimes not).  My legs were burning after the first half hour, and I had to take so many rest breaks, I didn´t know if  I´d have enough time (never mind energy) to make it to Roncesvalles.

The weather was much colder than the day before, especially the higher up the mountain you got.  I looked off in the distance at one point, at the "high" route, and it looked like it was snowing like hell up there.  I did have on my full cold-weather gear though, so for the most part, I was ok.  I kept seeing the sun on other mountains, and kept hoping it would shine on mine, but it just never happened. Once I got to the top of the "low" road (it´s only 200m lower), at la Puerta de Ibaneta, I was surprised.  The whole place was essentially frozen over.  Mostly frost, but a bit of snow too. 

From Ibaneta, it was a quick downhill walk to Roncesvalles, 100m lower in altitude, and on the sunny side of the mountain.  What a relief to finally see the road sloping down away from me.  Arrived at the pilgrim´s office at 2:00, which, in Spain, is a bad time to arrive anywhere. Place was closed up until 4:00.  So I popped into the hotel/restaurant/bar next door to have some coffee, get warmed up a bit, and update my blog (the last two entries, not this one).

Finally got checked into the monestary at 4:00 and got the obligatory stamp on my credencial.  I was not at all surprised to discover I was the only pilgrim staying there.  Which is just as well for any other pilgrims, as the dorm in the monestary was only one or two degrees warmer than it was outside.  I heard later that there´s another couple from Spain who are doing the camino by bike, but they´re staying at the hotel next door.  Clever bastards.

In the 8:00 pilgrims mass, the priests outnumbered the pilgrims three to one, and the entire congregation by three to two.  It was a beautiful service though, and very short lines for communion.  At the end, they ask all the pilgrims to come up front (in this case all = me) to recieve the traditional pilgrim´s blessing.  So, having done my religious duty, it was off to dinner and an early bedtime.  Tomorrow brings Zubiri, my first 20k-plus day.  From here on in, I more or less know what to expect.  After today though....who knows.

One more note...Photos should be here.